I first met Irene back in September, during Beijing Design Week. She was wearing a Mondrian-inspired silk dudou from her own Beijing-based brand, PILLOWBOOK, which remixes modern aesthetics into traditional Chinese lingerie styles.

Fast forward a couple of months and a healthy amount of online stalking, I’ve tackled her down for a new series called #GIRLCRUSH. This will spotlight girls I meet who have that special spark, who inspire endless talks about the future, who have a vision, and who are really really hardworking.

Before we start, a definition of ‘Pillowbook’ might be useful! A long long time ago in China, whenever a girl just got married and was expected to finally be with her husband – she’d be like 12 or 13 years old at this point – her mother would give her this mysterious Pillowbook ting, showing her what was to be done in bed to make her man happy. (Sorry for the noob description guys, but my mom reads my blog…) Anyway. Here goes!

You’re Taiwanese but were born in NYC. Where is home for you?

Home is wherever I am comfortable dressed only in a silk dudou, bouncing on the trampoline (read: bed) with my 4-legged son, Homer, until one of us steps on my fiancé’s foot.

Why lingerie?

In the beginning, it was for the freedom of wearing whatever pleases you regardless of the public outfit one must appropriate to an occasion or season. Today, it’s the pleasure of intimacy I build with clients since the act of undressing during fittings for someone fosters honesty and trust. 9/10 times, she gets so comfortable that private stories spill. Stories range from marital bliss to comical sexual encounters to the occasional bondage lesson. That’s a real pleasure and honor that you can’t get from selling any other garment (maybe latex cat suit?). It is called ‘intimate’ apparel for a reason.

Tell me the Pillowbook story. How did it all start?

Back in 2007? 8? I was researching about China and surfed upon this site describing a pillow book. I had like an OMF EUREKA! moment since I’ve just finished a year-long thought-provoking work experience at Kiki de Montparnasse and dreamed of creating a label along the lines of luxury and elegant erotica. I started on the logo and branding but placed the entire dream on hold when I came to China in ’09.

After three years in China, friends and I got fed up with the local lingerie options. We had long ago made peace with our naturally smaller physique – B cup and smaller – but did not want to wear the push-up bras that the media here was really promoting. But nothing else was available. So that was my second eureka moment. I quit my very cushy job with Oscar-winning Tim Yip to create a petite-for-petite lingerie company. Sometimes I think it’s the stupidest choice I’ve ever made but most nights I go to bed with a grin.

Some of your pieces don’t have padding. What about stiff nips?

You wear specific shoes for different outfits. Wearing a non-padded bra beneath a fitted T-shirt is not recommended nor would killer pointed heels work on the beach. Non-padded bras are great with heavy knitted sweaters and sculptural cuts – think Kawakubo. Happy tits perk in sync with Miyake’s pleats. Putting an outfit together is all about creativity and a ‘lil sass, no? 2014 was a great year for feminism, sprouting #freethenipple #freethegirls amongst others and recently, a lot of celebs are seen braless and very perky. Give it a few years stiff nips will be a trend, I’ll bet my money on it. For now, try Band-Aids or nip covers.

What is it like running a business from Beijing?

China manufactures more than 70% of the world’s intimates so starting an independent lingerie label where every piece is created in-house is very difficult. Extremely. In NY or in the UK, there are gazillions of small lingerie startups and it’s so amazing how supportive their local industries are. But, unfortunately, here it’s not the same. There is also not a single lingerie luxury lingerie designer boutique in China to distribute PILLOWBOOK so for anyone out there who wants to open a store, you have no competition in this niche. Brand New China sells our lounge and sleepwear pieces but opt out on the lingerie. Oh well. Call me insane or naive but the risk is half the fun. In the end, homegrown prêt-à-porter labels are gaining traction so maybe lingerie will follow suit.

Let’s start with the morning: What time do you get up, what time do you get to work, and what happens in between?

8:30ish. Wake-up kisses from Homer and Pierre. My favorite guilty pleasure is to never set the alarm with exceptions of course. Coffee with honey, biscuits, preferably cake. Avoid real news and opt for Upworthy, Instagram, Pinterest and Tumblr. Shower, slather on cream, pencil in eyebrow (won’t leave the house without it). Warrior suit. Lipstick. Bike to work. 10:30ish.

What do you wish someone told you before launched the brand?

When life throws you lemons, don’t make do with lemonade. You arm yourself with the best recipe and make lemon-coconut meringue pie and lemon-pomegranate Margarita recipe.

What is the hardest about running your own business?

Keeping the finances in check and not being able to communicate my thoughts and excitements in perfect Chinese. As you know, I’m fluent in both English and Chinglish but not ‘Jing-Chinese.

What keeps you going?

Dessert, chocolate and a good loud cry – loud enough for the world to hear until I feel stupid knowing there are more important things in the world than just lingerie and me. So then I just keep swimming. Just keep swimming. Just keep swimming swimming swimming. In all seriousness, every time I see an Asian-inspired collection emblazoned with fans, dragons, phoenixes and the likes of a stereotypical Ching-Chong-Chopsticks designed by a non-Asian, I get extremely annoyed. It never fails as an encouragement to create something that resonates closer to the contemporary and modern China.

How do you think the identity of the Chinese woman has changed in the past years?

She is stronger with more courage to stand out, more adventurous to experiment new things and never gives it a second thought to pamper and pleasure all her five senses. It’s less and less about the man, more and more about ‘me’ and that is an empowered woman.

 

Any advice for girls working on their dreams but are doubtful about going the full way?

You will regret it even more for never knowing ‘what if…’ so go ahead and start an adventure. The worst thing that could happen is the business fails and you find job, which you probably have, now, while dreaming so what is there to lose? If you do take the leap, always remember who you are, why you are doing it and never, ever, compromise your values. People will try to pull you down from every direction but good thing is, the universe has a bizarre way of sprinkling magic back in your pillow when you least expect it. So. Go. Now.

What’s a typical Monday like for you?

I can’t think of a typical one. The Pillowbook team, assistant GaoJin and seamstress YinXiaoFeng, come to the studio so I’m always happy on Monday mornings to hear the sewing machine humming. When you do what you love, Mondays are the best day of the week and #TGIF rarely happens.

And Sunday?

I teach teenagers how to upcycle old clothing from 10-12 at the Atelier Workshop, then head to the showroom for appointments. If there aren’t any, I take Homer out for a nice walk. Sometimes, I clean around the house. My fiancé will deny this. Best part is the big blue steak dinner cooked by Chef Pierre A. and some French wine while watching The Simpsons.

What advice would you give to your 18-year-old self?

Learn your Chinese and your French. Stop buying expensive lingerie. Stop buying anything. Save your money. Continue with pottery and photography class. Be more ambitious. I could go on. And on. Like, forever on. Best advice: Great things never came from comfort zones.

Interview + photos by Victoria Jin